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ITINERARIES OF ELBATUTTANATURA

 

CLIMBING THE ISLAND: FREE CLIMBING ITINERARIES

"Costa dei Gabbiani" (Seagull Coast) is found near Capoliveri, precisely, on the beach of Ginepro. To reach it, follow the unpaved road which starts almost in front of city hall. Once you come to "Residence Costa dei Gabbiani", ask for information at the reception desk.

  1. Cormorano nano 5c
  2. Dulpherina 5a
  3. altamarea 5b
  4. Dobloni e galeoni 5c
  1. L'isola che non c'è 6c
  2. Red Viking 7b
  3. The return of space cowboy 7b
  4. Hammer head 7a
  5. Turisiope 7a
  6. La via del granchio 6c
  7. La via dell'orca 6c
  8. Manta nera 6a+
  9. Il grido del gabbiano 6b+
  10. Red Cowboy
  1. Blue Dolphin
  2. Dolphina 6c
  1. Margattera 4a
  2. il canto della Margattera 4b
  3. Zifio 4c
  4. Beluga 4a
  5. Cazza la randa 5b+
  6. Una bionda tutta d'oro 5c+
  7. Octopussy 5b
  8. Cozzamara 5a
  9. Verdesca L 1 5c - L 2 5b


"Capo Sant' Andrea" is in the village of Sant' Andrea, a locality of the town of Marciana. Once on the beach, you will find a trail that climbs over the rocks and leads to the face. Ask at HOTEL ILIO for any further information, however.

  1. Rup 7b
  2. Occhio di Venere 7a+
  3. La sportiva 7a+
  4. Replicante 7b+
  1. Elbatuttanatura 6b
  2. Capo Sant'Andrea 6c


"Monte St. Bartolomeo" can be reached by following trail n° 3 from the village of Chiessi, another, a locality of Marciana. The hike up to the face will take about forty minutes.

  1. Vipera 6c
  2. Cima di Chiessi (Via del Greco spaventato) L16b - L26c
  3. Via dei gigli martagoni IV +
    3bis. Via dei veci IV+


The face called "Fetovaia" is found just passed the village of Seccheto and before that of Fetovaia, both of which are vicinities of the town of Campo nell'Elba. Just as you leave Seccheto, on the left (sea side), there are parking areas marked with a wood post fence. If you leave your car in the second parking area, you can easily reach the first two faces. You will have to go back along the road to reach the other two faces, but you can still get there on foot.

Tutte le soste sono senza catena ma hanno l'accesso dall'alto

  1. Reni superboy 6a
  2. Hang Loose 6b
  3. Senza Nome 6b
  4. Hogger Bogger 6c
  5. Acquarius 6a+
  6. Blue moon 6a+
  7. Boulder 6c+
  8. Germania 5b
  9. Venticinquemmezzo 6a
  10. Natalina 6a
  11. Ondosu onda 5b
  12. Simonetta 6b
  13. Senza Nome 6c
  14. Crepix 6c
  15. Blublu 5c
  16. Toccata e fuga 7a
  17. Toccata di figa 7a
  18. Poco poco 6a
  19. Luna 6c+
  20. Must klettern 6c
  21. Dietrix 5c+
  22. Apnea 6a+
  23. Via della formica 6a
  24. Mosquito coast 6b+
  25. H2O 6a+
  26. Fabricrack 7a+
  27. Ombra nera 6c+
  28. Fog 5c+
  29. Agua caliente 6b
  30. Wet wet 6b

"Madonna del Monte" can be reached by a path that begins in the old centre of Marciana and passes near the Pisan Fortress. Once at the church of Madonna del Monte, go towards the pine grove where you will find directions for trail n° 3 towards the left. Going right, you will come to a rock mass of an eagle shape. Among the surrounding masses, the tracks are found.

  1. Mini 5c
  2. Alveare 6b
  3. Spigolo del caprile 5c
  4. Il Pastore 4a
  5. Via delle capre 6b+
  6. Topazio 6a
  7. Smeraldo 6a+
  8. Random NL


Note: The "Costa dei Gabbiani" climb is the newest face and has been equipped with resin spits. The other faces are older, so it is always a good idea to check the condition of the spits. In the area, guides for hiking, mountain bikes and free-climbing are available. The face at the "Viste" has recently been closed and climbing is forbidden.

 
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